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Racing For those that take thier Caddy's to the track

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Old 08-06-2013, 05:41 AM   #31
EriktheAwful
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http://blog.caranddriver.com/jags-mg...urs-of-lemons/

We're the guys in the article with the stock powered "Union Jack" XJ6 performing engine repair mid-race.
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Old 08-06-2013, 08:04 AM   #32
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Sounds like great fun!!!

I like the creative names of the teams, cars & events. LOL!

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Old 08-10-2013, 09:15 PM   #33
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Not sure how I'm going to fit these under the car. I really hope I don't have to cut a channel in the floorpan just to fit over the exhaust.



Last edited by EriktheAwful; 08-10-2013 at 09:21 PM. Reason: Resized pic
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Old 08-11-2013, 07:56 AM   #34
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Those pipes look pretty cool! Ought to sound real nice.

What are those 2 small scoops on the rear door? Are they for the brakes?

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Old 08-11-2013, 06:09 PM   #35
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Yup. Scavenged from the heater and repurposed to scoop cool air to the inboard brakes. We're running Carbotech XP10 pads, but even racing compounds melt if you don't keep them cool.

Here's an MR2 caliper that melted when we didn't remove the brake dust shield. IIRC we were running Porterfield race pads. The piston came out far enough the brake fluid began leaking and caught fire. It was pretty exciting, what with no brakes and a flaming right front wheel.
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Old 02-21-2016, 12:48 PM   #36
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Wow, it's been two and a half years and I haven't given an update, nor have I finished getting the engine in. There has been progress!

I had one of each of the Cadillac oil pans: a front, mid, and rear sump. The recommended pan is a rear sump with a shortened sump and pickup tube, but in doing so you lose a quart or two - not what I want to do with an endurance racer. I cut the mid-sump pan up and made a new sump section from the side panel of an old dryer. I lengthened the pickup tube so it bolts down one main cap further back. Unfortunately my welding-on-oil-impregnated-sheetmetal skill sucks, so I sent it down to Dallas so my team captain can finish welding it.

I got a pair of header flanges and some 2", 2.5", and 3" exhaust tubing and fabbed up some tri-y headers. I wasn't planning on tri-ys, but that's what looks to fit the best. I hugged the block, dropped the y down below the third cylinder, and angled back at about 45*. I have to tack the driver's side back together and I can trial fit again. I don't have a tubing bender, and I didn't splurge on collectors, so it's all angle cuts and hand-fitment. When I get them to fit and clear the steering rack, I'll try and post pics.

The driveshaft is a GM truck driveshaft shortened with a Jag rear flange. The shop said it should handle 600hp with no problem - not that I'll ever be close to 600hp.

I did perform a fit test a while back and everything fits and lines up well - except the oil pan and headers as first redneck-ineered hit the power steering rack. Without the oil pan and headers the driveshaft is a perfect fit. The stock intake, carburetor, and found-in-the-attic Ford 289 air cleaner fit under the Jag hood.
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Old 07-04-2017, 10:51 AM   #37
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Annual update. I have pics, but too busy to figure out how to upload them.

The engine is in the engine bay, sitting on the mounts. The oil pan clears the steering rack by about an inch. The passenger header fits nicely, but needs some cleanup before mounting - I still need to mount a starter and see how it fits. The driver's side header still needs some bashing to fit around the steering shaft and some cleanup. The transmission is bolted in and the linkage bolted on and it works nicely.

I did discover that GM made at least four different driveshaft yokes for the TH400. The pickup yoke I have won't fully seat in the transmission. The Cadillac yoke fits perfect, but it's a double cardan joint yoke, and I can't swap it onto a non double cardan joint driveshaft. The Caddy driveshaft is heavy enough to use for bench-pressing, and I don't want to spend the money to shorten it. I may have to scrounge the salvage yard. Anybody have any ideas where to look for the correct transmission yoke? All the Caddys hitting Pull-A-Part are HT4100s and newer.

I was gifted an old Mr Gasket Street Scoop that was missing most of the important bits. Luckily, I found Summit is selling repop parts dirt cheap. I cut a hole in the hood and mounted the scoop. I'm operating it with a pull-cable so that if it jams up it won't stick the throttle open.

PCV is hooked up, distributor is temporarily stabbed, and the alternator has been robbed off my other Cadillac. The crank pulley will need to be swapped and then I can put the belt on. The power steering is a direct bolt-up - Jaguar used the same GM power steering pump, however, I've converted the rack to manual use - we might look like Popeye after our first race.

The fuel injection pump has been replaced with a Carter 7psi pump. I still need to mount the Holley FPR under the hood. I built a bracket to mount the Jag throttle cable on the intake, now I just need to engineer attaching the cable to the carburetor's throttle lever.

The remote oil filter adapter is in place, and I'll mount the filter pedestal after the radiator is mounted. I'll probably try and swap in my Caddy radiator. The Jag radiator is smaller and pretty crusty. I'll be running the Jag electric fans instead of the factory flex fan. The transmission cooler will be the Jag A/C condenser, modified to take transmission hoses - it worked great with the Jag transmission.

Last edited by EriktheAwful; 07-04-2017 at 11:06 AM.
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Old 11-14-2017, 06:56 AM   #38
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Old 11-14-2017, 07:05 AM   #39
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We raced the Jaggernaut at the 24 Hours of Lemons race in Houston this last weekend. We got a total of 13 laps due to overheating, charging system problems, and oil leaking. We got most of the problems sorted out, but the radiator was crap and we didn't have a new one.

Is there a trick to running without a heater core? I have two engines, a '69 472 and a '76 500, which were both installed in my '69 Calais at one point. The 472 has a port under the thermostat that I used to run to the heater core, and the other heater hose ran to a port on the backside of one of the heads. On the '76 there is no port under the thermostat, so I used to have a 425(?) thermostat housing with a coolant port to the heater core, again running to the backside of a head.

In the Jag I only ran hoses to and from the radiator. We could run about 5 laps before geysering the water in the radiator. We did run the coolant overflow to spray on the windshield, so there was no ignoring an overheating condition.
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Old 11-14-2017, 08:22 AM   #40
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Do you have the correct Cadillac specific thermostat installed?

Not any old generic T'stat will work.
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