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Racing For those that take thier Caddy's to the track

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Old 10-21-2011, 12:26 PM   #11
CadillacKid
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Sounds like quite an imaginative project.
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Old 10-21-2011, 05:30 PM   #12
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Use a long bolt or all thread to grab good threads. bottom it. use a nut on the bolt (all thread) to push the damper on. Make sure there are no dinged edges on the snout or damper. A heat gun on the damper hub may make things easier.
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Old 10-22-2011, 07:23 AM   #13
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I hadn't thought about using my heat gun. I'll give that a shot.
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Old 01-17-2012, 03:11 PM   #14
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Default no coolant

If you really wanted not having a radiator why dont you just use a closed cooling system.Modify the t-stat housing to make it a fill point and fill the block till the over flows at the t stat. That way the engine comes up to somewhat of a normal operating temp to make metal parts from cooking do to no heat transfer available.The mudboggers and some drag racers do run dry blocks but they dont run it for more than a minute or 2 about time it gets to the lights and runs down the track.
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Old 01-24-2012, 07:41 AM   #15
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It's kind of a moot point now. Instead of putting it in an autocrosser, I'm working on putting it in a Jaguar for racing in some 24 Hours of LeMons events. I rebuilt the engine for about $100 and threw in an $85 cam (more for the cool sound than any actual performance).
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Old 07-30-2013, 05:50 PM   #16
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It's been a while since I posted an update. I know I'm pulling up an old thread instead of posting something new, but I wanted to keep it in the context I've posted in the past.

IT WILL HAVE A COOLING SYSTEM. You can stop worrying now.

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Old 07-31-2013, 08:33 AM   #17
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Well... What's the extent of the update? The pic looks good, but how far along are you? I've often thought that a Caddy powered Jag would make for a very cool car. What type of rear end will you be running? Does that model Jag have IRS and if so, is it fairly strong? Looks cool... Let's hear some details.

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Old 07-31-2013, 02:41 PM   #18
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We got the engine and transmission sitting on the mounts and crossmember. It fits nice, but the exhaust is going to be real tight. I'm away from the car for a few weeks, but when I get a chance I'm going to take measurements to see the feasibility of fabbing a pair of block-hugging megaphone manifolds. Supposedly the stock cast manifolds will fit with some heating and bending, but I scrapped mine years ago. I bought a NASCAR boom tube exhaust that I'm seriously hoping will fit under the car.

The engine is on my engine stand while we're working on finish-welding the oil pan and sump. We took a mid-sump pan, reversed the sump, and placed it further back. The other option was seriously shortening a rear-sump Eldorado pan, and I wanted to keep a bit more capacity. We also have a remote filter setup, the factory Jag oil cooler, and a home-made oil accumulator.

We'll be running the factory Jag diff, which puts the brakes inboard, right above where the exhaust would run (hence the side-exit boom tubes). Supposedly the Jag diff is plenty strong so long as we don't go trying to break it. We're currently running the stock wheels with 225/40-15s scrammed onto them, and we won't have any worries about the diff. However, I scored a set of '96 Vette Grand Sport wheels (17x9.5 front, 17x11 rear), so we're hoping to run the 17x9.5s in back, and if I get around to making some fender flares we should be able to run the 17x11s. Those wheels and tires will require some care with the throttle. I might double up the throttle springs to ease our drivers' throttle attack.

The transmission is a Caddy TH400 converted to a short-tail, which puts the driveshaft length at 56". The driveshaft tunnel is pretty narrow though, so the driveshaft will have to be fabbed.

The car is lowered by a coil-and-a-half at each spring, which slams it down about as far as I'd dare go. It handles excellent for a two-ton beast. It's unequal a-arms up front, so lowered our ride height and improved our camber by lowering it. The rear suspension is lower a-arms and half-shafts for the upper arms (that's the only part that really worries me about the rear end) with factory dual coil-overs.

We painted the car with rollers and Rustoleum. Two parts white to one part silver and one part thinner (to help it lay flat). It looks off-white, but when the sun hits it right it sparkles. We're keeping all the chrome, including the 5 pound front grill.

I'm re-using all the Lucas wiring, but with all the important switches replaced by quality stuff. I'm just too cheap to buy a harness, and the stock harness had miles of excess wire.

Here's a pic when it last ran with the stock 600 pound 4.2 Jag motor (a stock 472 is around 620lbs).


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Old 07-31-2013, 02:52 PM   #19
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BTW, there is a kit for this. www.suncoastconversions.com.
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Old 08-01-2013, 07:08 AM   #20
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Have you seen the Oil Pan that the 368 powered Eldorado uses?

It may be just what you need. It is an awesome rear sump pan that is quite compact & not very expensive. Last time I looked (A few years ago) they were readily available & cheap. I don't know what the pick-up tube looks like though & how well it works out. You may have to modify a pick-up tube. I will post some pics of the pan below. Let me know if you need any measurements.
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